Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands

Shivering at Loch Ness in the Scottish Highlands

I don't know what we were expecting really.

 

Maybe rolling hills and a few tall peaks. The odd crag, perhaps. All we knew for certain was we wanted to get up into the Scottish Highlands.

What we ended up seeing was nothing short of spectacular.

With more than 280 mountains in Scotland and  most dusted in snow, it was our good fortune to see the richness and textures so beautifully limned this winter. Last year the public had 5 months - months! - of skiing. This year? Only 3 weekends' worth. But for us, it was perfect. These rugged mountainous beauties stood so close to the roads we could lay our hands on them despite their peaks disappearing into the clouds. 

 

 

 

Into the Highlands

 

These mountains were thrust up from the earth by the same tectonic plate shift that created the Appalachian Mountains. (Small wonder so many Scotsmen felt at home in that part of North America, specifically Virginia.)

 

Our 12-hour tour took us from Edinburgh north up into the Highlands and through the breathtaking Glencoe Valley.

 

 

 

From Glencoe we continued north to Loch Ness where no unusual sightings were logged from the huge, churning deep. There are over 31,000 lochs in all of Scotland and Loch Ness is the largest in terms of volume.
 

Throughout the day we saw some of the locals . . .

 

The highland cattle have a most welcome thick double-coat of hair to keep them comfy in the harsh weather.

 

. . . had lunch in a pub (surprise!) . . .

 

Plenty of whiskies to choose from for lunch.

 

and reflected on the scenery.

 

Loch Lubnaig, one of the 31,000 lochs (lakes) in Scotland

 

Back in Edinburgh the following day,  our sightseeing was somewhat dampened by the weather but we still managed a walk along the Royal Mile, a visit to the Scottish National Gallery, some haggis, whiskey and sleep.

 

Snowing on the Royal Mile

 

For more pictures of our trip to Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands, take a wee second and click here.

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Despite the cold rain and snow, the pipers were out along the Royal Mile:

 

 

 

 

Glasgow, Scotland: August 23-25, 2014

Selections at the Glengoyne Whiskey Distillery

Our next weekend jaunt took us north to Glasgow -- half because we wanted to see Scotland, half because we wanted to explore the city’s artsy side, and half because Edinburgh was booked. Glasgow -- rhymes with floss glow – is a true northern beauty, with sweeping grace that belies an iron frame. 

Our hotel was centrally located in the Theatre district just a wee walk from George Square and a lively downtown that included bagpipers on every block, I kilt you not. Our favorite was the pipe and drum group, Clanadonia, who looked like they just tore straight down from the Highlands. And everywhere we strolled, the Scottish burr tickled our ear. (“Wha’s like us? Damn few and they’re a deid. Mair’s the pity.")



Willow Tea Room - fixtures and furniture
designed by Glaswegian Charles Rennie Mackintosh

Glasgow's famous sons include poet Robert Burns, author Sir Walter Scott, and millionaire Scrooge McDuck. But the one who shaped the city's appearance and allure is designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh. His signature Art Nouveau style is etched in everything from architecture to shop signs.

Our second day in Scotland we took a bus tour north, stopping first at historic Stirling. Its castle was home to the UK's Stuart family which included such notables as Mary Queen of Scots and King James V, known locally as Jimmy Five­. The castle overlooks Stirling Bridge, where Robert the Bruce finally – finally! -- defeated the English in 1314. You might remember the battle as the final scene in quote Mel Gibson's woefully inaccurate film Braveheart unquote. (Despite the inaccuracies, the film increased tourism by 200% and according to our tour guide, Scotland never looked back.)

The Heather and me above Loch Lomand

Next it was on to the bonny banks of Loch Lomand where we hiked through heather and bracken to the top of a hill overlooking the loch. The view was breathtaking. But it was hard to imagine this small country the size of South Carolina has over 1,000 such lochs. 

Our day closed out with a soothing visit to Glengoyne Scotch Whiskey Distillery. Those who know me, know I’m not a drinker. I can barely finish a beer in one sitting and a glass of wine makes me ill. But until now I never knew I could handle 18-year old Single Malt Scotch Whiskey.  This is why it's important to travel, folks.

Our final morning lent just enough time to visit Glasgow’s Museum of Modern Art with its beautiful stain glass skylight and oddly intriguing cardboard exhibit. Then it was back to the hotel for luggage and on to the train station for home. Farewell Glasgow and lang may your lum reek (long may your chimney smoke).

Clanadonia Bagpipes and Drums - Keeping it Tribal:

 For more pictures of our trip to Glasgow,  click here.

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It’s the little things . . . 

Our bus tour made an unscheduled stop at Castle Doune. You probably recognize it from Monty Python’s Holy Grail. It was als­o used as ‘Winterfell’ in HBO’s Game of Thrones. 

Castle Doune. Look familiar?